Dogo Onsen Public Bath, or, How to Get Really Clean

The oldest public bath in Japan is Dogo Onsen, about 400 yrs old, a popular Japanese tourist spot. We bravely set out on the free bicycles available from our hotel, and just followed the intra-city trolley line to get there. We first visited a nearby temple, Ishite-ji, which was lovely and serene. I sat for a few minutes in the temple meditating. We observed a group of henro doing the 88-temple pilgrimage, recognizable by their white clothing, rice-paddy hats, and walking sticks. The group did some chanting while we were there. Afterwards they were very friendly, assuring me via gestures that it was OK to take pix on the temple grounds. Other visitors threw some coins into the offering box and rang a large bell, and lit incense or candles at various shrines around the temple. We saw no other Caucasians at the temple. We then found our way to the bath, via an entrance walkway lined with souvenir shops on both sides. The drill: first remove your shoes and put them in a locker at the entrance, then pay, including renting soap, washcloth, and towel, then enter the women's bath area, put your clothes and gear in another locker, then enter the bath itself and squat on a low stool in front of a sink along the side and scrub yourself thoroughly with soap and rinse well, and only then step into the very hot water of the hot spring bath, where you can only stand it for a few minutes. A highlight was an cheerful old woman who offered to scrub our backs while we were washing and included some skillful back and shoulder massage that felt great. This whole experience is very traditional Japanese and I have no regrets about doing it, but, honestly, all for a few minutes in a hot tub? Then by the time we biked back to the hotel I was all hot and sweaty again and ready for another bath!