The Volcano - May 12

Today is the big 10 mile death march to see the active volcano, which we have been warned will be hot, long, and grueling. Although it turns out I could probably have gone the whole way after all, I decide in advance I will go part way, then return early for some long overdue downtime. Slathered with sunscreen, armored with sunhats, hiking boots, bandanas, and a liter of water each, we set off. We opt not to bring the camera or binocs, only essentials like water and sunscreen. Ben and I hold back a bit to form the slower group with our intrepid leader Tavo (we are now on nickname terms with him). It turns out to be overcast, cooler, and flatter than anticipated, and the mists come and go, sometimes obscuring the view, but on the way back lifting to show a spectacular panorama of the caldera. I still drip with sweat but hike steadily. Instead of going straight up, the trail circles quite pleasantly through vegetation around the huge caldera, 5x6 miles in size (and still increasing, as cracks in the solidified magma continue to appear, giving in to the pressure below). About 3 miles in, we rest and eat our box lunches on some benches under dense trees providing lovely shade. Tavo and I turn back, while the rest of the group, led by Luis (nicknamed Lucho), continues on a steep downhill to the solidified magma field, where it is black, rocky, and hot (from the lava as well as the weather) and there is a view of active magma. My hike back with Tavo gives me a chance to learn a lot more about Tavo and about Ecuador, which was quite interesting and inspires me to want to someday make a return trip to the mainland. I get back to the hotel after a solitary taxi ride with young taxi driver Steven, with whom I exchange some limited Spanish, then we listen to some traditional Equadorian music on the radio. Finally I get some downtime, first lolling in the lovely little atrium pool, cooling off, then shower, nap, writing, and relaxing in the lovely hotel. After everyone gets back later, we talk Tavo into an earlier dinner, traipsing in ponchos through the rain, for another wonderful dinner, spaghetti and risotto (for us veggies).